Istanbul

Surprising, vibrant, Oriental, yet the edge of Europe

Introduction to Istanbul

The first and most obvious place to see in Turkey has to be Istanbul. This city is where you can see Asia and Europe meet, quite literally. The Bosphorus divides the continents, but the city is more than that. Churches vie for space with mosques, and the city has a sizeable number of synagogues and a thriving Jewish community. The old city of Istanbul on the European side is actually the most Asian, with its ancient architecture and mosques. In Istanbul you will also find a great number of museums that showcase archeology, military history, Islamic science and more. The two palaces of Topkapi and Dolmabahce both are splendid for different reasons. One is a stone version of a Turkik nomadic encampment, sprawling over the high ground that dominates the Golden Horn and the other is a smaller version of Versailles Palace.

The Blue Mosque and Aya Sofia are contrasting places of worship that both require your visit. Back up to the Grand Bazaar, the world’s largest enclosed market: possibly the first and greatest shopping centre on earth takes a day to understand and months to learn to navigate.  As it sits on a hill, you can always head up to Beyazit or down to Eminonu.  However, our own favorite way to see Istanbul is the simple commuter ferry ride down the Bosphorus, taking in all the sites for less than a dollar.

Istanbul Top Attractions

What are the top things to see and do in Istanbul?
The Blue Mosque. Wander around inside. (Wear long trousers). It has very pretty ceilings. Designed by the architect “Mimar Sinan”. Easy shoes might come in handy as you need to take them off everywhere.

Topkapi Palace. See the palace in Istanbul from where the Sultans ruled over the entire Ottoman empire. A sprawling array of kosks and pavilions, this is more of a walled stone encampment than a palace.

Dolmabahce Palace: in 1843, the Ottoman Sultans started to take a turn towards Europe and so construction of the Dolmabahce palace began. It looks a little like Versailles, and its decidedly French look shows the turning point in Turkey’s history.

Aya Sofya (Santa Sophia) museum. This used to be a church, then a mosque and now a museum. It has a very pleasant interior with mosaics etc. In respect of Christianity the Turks

changed it from a mosque back to a museum to allow all faiths to see its

stunning mosaics.

Take a Government Bosphorus cruise. Make note: this might well be a big ship- run by Turkish maritime lines or a smaller vessel, but you need to find the boat operated by the Istanbul City Council. It also needs to go all the way up to Anadolu Kavagi. The private boats never go this far (and you can get off the government boat and carry on, with the same ticket). Do not get on some small scow, with hoodlums reminiscent of Zanzibar selling the tickets.  It generally leaves from the government pier right next to the Galata bridge.  As a rule – if you go through a metal turn style you are in the right place. If you can, take it all the way to the end of the route (Anadolu Kavagi) and return. Boat leaves at around 1000hrs and returns by 1500-1700?? Do Double check this. Ideally the vessel will be 200ft long and has a Turkish flag and crossed anchors on the funnel, but now you find some of the smaller vessels motor transports vessels are being subcontracted by the government ferry company.

Take a tram to Beyazit and enter the Grand Bazaar there. Wander around to your hearts content. The whole bazaar is laid out in areas selling the same item (a bit like the guild districts in Medieval times): there is jewellery in one area, carpets in another etc. I often stop for tea in a cafe inside the Grand Bazar and watch the world shop.

Walk down to Eminonu, over the Golden Horn (watch out for dolphins) and then walk to Karakoy. (If you are lazy you can take the tram- then take the “Tunnel” up to Istiklal Caddessi and Independence Avenue). Stroll up towards Taksim Square and take in the shops and the old European quarter of Istanbul (young or artistic foreigners and the Turkish gay and perhaps the somewhat alternative community generally live here). Watch out for the streets either side of Istiklal Caddesi, especially at night. They can house rogues. From Taksim square, take the funicular down to Kabatas. Then see Dolmabahce Palace if you like. Dolmabahce Palace has been described as an eastern Versailles. This place is fundamentally European.

Take a ferry from Karakoy to Kadikoy (which is actually a transcontinental ferry: it leaves Europe and arrives in Asia). Then wander around Kadikoy, where you can peruse the second hand bookshops and have lunch. This is where the Turkish middle class live, and is very European -only you are actually in Asia. The ferry passes the old Hayderpasa (pronounced Hayderepasha) Station which was earmarked to be torn down and turned into flats. In Turkey everything is changing, and so this may now not happen.

I have taken trains from here to the Chinese border (well with a few busses in between).

Going back to the Sultanahmet area, try the Hammam – the centuries old Turkish Bath at Cemberlitas. You can choose to wear your swimwear inside and have a good scrub down with traditional soap. A visit and scrub should cost around £20 or more.

Go to the Museum of Islamic Science just below Sultanahmet (the district in which you will be staying.)  There you will find the trading maps that show the Trans-Indian Ocean trade routes. The island of Pemba, where I used to live was the final port of departure from Africa before reaching Bandar Aceh in Indonesia. This took an incredible 52 days. Imagine doing this in an Arab Dhow!

After Istanbul it is time to head off.
Ferries are one of the best ways to get around Istanbul

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