Three hours south of Ankara is Turkey’s most famous attraction, the ancient Christian cities of Cappadocia. Two days tramping around the valleys and cave churches can be topped off with a magnificent dawn balloon flight. If you fancy going farther afield and you are not in the height of summer, then Cappadocia calls.
A very short history of Cappadocia would read like this: Cappadocia was once a kingdom situated in central Anatolia, with links to Persia. When the Romans came to Anatolia, they deposed the existing rulers and took over Asia Minor. The Cappadocians supported first one and then another Roman ruler during the Roman civil wars, until 17AD when Tiberias made Cappadocia a Roman Province. By about 500 AD some of the Cappadocians had become Christians. After this time, there was friction between the Arabs in the south, the Cappadocians in the centre and the Armenians in the north east. After the battle of Manzikert in 1071, the glorious Turks started establishing their control over Anatolia.
The things to see in Cappadocia are the fairy tale chimneys which are a natural phenomenon and exist everywhere. The Christian Churches in the caves, the open air museum in Goreme, and the underground cities of Derinkuyu are only some of the list of local sites. Apart from that the fields and farms around the area are typically Anatolian and offer a glimpse into genuine Turkish rural life.
I prefer to stay in Ortahisar, as the village of Goreme itself has become a tourist infested trap. When walking in fields or around them, watch out for sheep dogs, which protect their flock ferociously. Carrying a stick is often a good move.
GETTING TO CAPPADOCCIA
Most people now fly to the new Nevsehir Kapadokya airport, which is 70 kilometres away from Nevsehir and Cappadoccia (they had to find some flat land to put the runway on).
I prefer to fly to the Turkish Airforce Station of Erkilet, which is in the town of Kayseri. There is now a civil terminal with civil access, and you don’t feel that you are on an airbase. The city of Kayseri is large, interesting and is much better served than Nevsehir. Both Turkish Airlines and Pegasus Airlines fly there along with other companies. The travel time is 1.5 hrs in a 737 www.thy.com www.flypgs.com From there, there is always a “servis otobus” bus to Goreme. Then get a taxi to Ortahisar.
STAYING IN CAPPADOCCIA
Bear in mind that Cappadoccia is one of the most visited parts of Turkey. I have a kiwi friend of mine there called Ruth Lockwood, who I try and send all my friends to see. She has now, thank God, re-opened a small hotel www.elaacavehotel.com so I finally have somewhere decent to stay without being expensive. Ruth is around 50 years old and runs a very successful carpet business called Tribal Collections carpets.
If you want to buy a carpet or Kilim, then you simply must see Ruth, as she combines Turkish quality with New Zealand honesty. You will never have a bad deal from Ruth. Never. Whether you buy or not, you MUST contact her first by email: rlockwood_2000@yahoo.com this is to avoid being ripped off by hotel owners and guides (see my section on carpets below). Her shop website is here: www.tribalcollectionscarpets.com
Her hotel also organizes very reasonably priced tours of the area and even do airport pickups.
If Ruth’s hotel is full, ask her receptionist where to stay in Ortahisar or nearby.
Below, photos of Ortahisar
